Gérald Genta: watch visionary and creator of Patek Philippe Nautilus

From supplier to world's best watch designer

The one who died in 2011 Gerald Genta was a Swiss watchmaker known for his stylish and innovative watches. He was born in Geneva in 1931, learned the craft of a jeweler and began a steep career as a watchmaker in the 1950s. In the first few years, he worked primarily as a contract manufacturer for various brands and designed individual parts. He made his breakthrough in 1954 when he designed an anti-magnetic watch that became the official watch of the Scandinavian airline SAS. At the age of just 23, he designed the SAS Polerouter, a watch that was reminiscent of the Scandinavian airline's polar flights and became one of the brand's biggest successes. In the 1960s, Genta founded his own watchmaking company Gerald Genta SA and received a first, exclusive contract for Omega. The result of this collaboration was the Omega Seamaster and the Omega Constellation, for which the designer created various cases and dials.

In 1970, Gérald Genta made his final breakthrough. He was commissioned by Audemars Piguet to design a completely new, waterproof sports watch that stood out from the gold bracelet watches that were common at the time. Something that was more in line with the spirit of the times. In just one day, Genta delivered and designed the Royal Oak with corners, edges, hexagonal screws and an integrated bracelet.

Genta is one of the most influential watchmakers of all time and According to his own estimate, designed around 100,000 watches over a period of 50 years. His watches have inspired other watchmakers and helped make the watch a luxury item. He followed his own style, which is known as “lignes douces”, soft lines, and which often has an octagonal basic drawing. Another unique selling point of Gentas watches are screws, nuts and rivets, which were previously always sealed, covered or only found on the underside of the case. They suddenly became the focal point of design and thus set an unmistakable, distinctive accent. The most well-known example of this is probably the prominent placement of screw heads on the bezel of the Royal Oak.

Famous watch models from Gérald Genta

Gérald Genta is known for watches that are both stylish and innovative. He worked for almost all major brands and was largely responsible for ensuring that watch designers in the industry gained status and attention and became stars themselves. His most famous watches are Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Patek Philippe Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur and Grand Sonnerie.

• Audemars Piguet Royal Oak

At Royal Oak, “timing” was everything: In 1970, Audemars Piguets commissioned Gérald Genta to design a completely new, waterproof sports watch - but only gave him time until the next morning. Inspired by the look and feel of a diving helmet, Genta created the legendary Royal Oak with its eight visible screws in just 24 hours. After initially slow demand, the watch finally became Audemars Piguet's best seller, which is still the best-seller in the collection today in numerous versions that have been modernized over and over again.

• IWC engineer

At the end of the 1960s, IWC Schaffhausen had the idea of bringing a heavy, new stainless steel engineer onto the market. IWC turned to Gérald Genta in search of an external designer. With the Ingenieur SL, the designer gave the 1976 model the legendary design that we know today. With a stainless steel bezel, which this time had no screws, but had five recesses.

• Patek Philippe Nautilus

Also in 1976, the Nautilus was introduced. This sports watch is also from Gérald Genta, who, inspired by the shape of a porthole, gave it profiled flank protection and rounded corners. However, the visible Royal Oak screws had disappeared and given way to a high-quality satin bezel. However, the success of the Nautilus was only gradual: It wasn't until the women's version presented three years later that took off in full, while the big breakthrough of the men's Nautilus only came towards the end of the 1990s. Since then, the steel version of the Nautilus has been so popular that it is barely available and is traded at top prices.

• Grand Sonnerie

In his own company, after five years of research and development, Genta created a true masterpiece with the “Grande Sonnerie”. It has the same carillon as Big Ben and is considered one of the most sophisticated wristwatches in the world.

Patek Philippe Nautilus as a profitable investment

The Patek Philippe Nautilus luxury sports watch is not only one of the most important and sought-after models in the watch world, but also has enormous potential for increasing value. 2021 alone is the Market price rose by 100 percent. This is partly due to the low number of pieces, which is met with huge hype: Patek Philippe builds around 60,000 watches a year, although some models — such as the Nautilus 5711, reference 5711/1R-001 — are no longer produced at all. Investors who cannot or do not want to raise a five to six-figure sum for a Nautilus now have the option of using digital shares in a Nautilus 5711 in rose gold to invest. In this way, like an owner, you participate in potential increases in value and sales revenue of “your” Patek Philippe Nautilus.

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